Posted on July 14, 2008
Go figure my last day at Pavilion Lake was gloomy. For a while, the rain actually turned to snow, making this two years in a row that I’ve seen snow in July.
Next up: Axel Heiberg Island in the High Arctic. In the meantime, here is a grab-bag of images and stories from Pavilion Lake…
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Astronaut Goes Down Instead of Up
Here’s Mike Gernhardt, from NASA’s Johnson Space Center, about to pilot the DeepWorker sub. Mike is involved in the rover design for our next moon mission. Yes folks, we are going back. Keep your pants on until 2018. On another note: you can get an idea from this picture of just how small these subs are. When Nuytco was designing them, they got a business class airplane seat, and literally built the sub around that. What’s so amazing about Nuytco is that they make subs which can go down to 2000 feet or deeper, but keep them small enough to fit in a pickup. Another cool thing: you actually drive these suckers with your feet. No steering wheel.
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It looks less impressive than it really was. This thing had to be assembled right on the lake, and it was designed especially for our project. Nuytco typically launch their subs from enormous vessels, which can support cranes or mechanical pulley systems. We needed something big enough to launch two submersibles, but small enough that it could be transported to the lake on the back of a truck … which meant that the subs had to be lowered on a chain into the water on by hand!
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(No, there are not aliens in Pavilion Lake.) Pictured here is one of the “artichokes” … a microbialite from pretty deep in the lake. Microbialites are carbonate structures. They’re surprisingly delicate. Up close, you can see tiny pores and individual, sand-like grains. Some of the structures crumble like dirt if you pinch them between your fingers. So beautiful and still totally mysterious.
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Here I am getting interviewed. Why anybody would possibly want to capture my thoughts on film is beyond me, but it nevertheless happened. The white sail-looking thing is supposed to diffuse light, which apparently makes your face look better. We nicknamed the light diffusing device “The CHUMP,” which stands for Can’t Hold Up Myself Properly.
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McKay Has Better Things to Say
Chris McKay’s interview was undoubtedly more valuable than my own. McKay is kind of the granddaddy champion of astrobiology. He’s hugely involved in Mars exploration (including being a co-investigator for the Phoenix Lander).
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Here’s a photo of some of the barge crew, Nuytco guys, divers, sub pilots, and a few of the ladies who tried their hand at hauling chain. Front and center is Jeff “the Human Crane” Heaton. Check out those arms. One day, he lifted a sub out of the water with one hand. Rumor has it, he can do it with a single pinkie finger.
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My New Best Friend
Here’s me with astronaut Mike, wearing his flight suit. I got a personalized tour of all the pockets. His chapstick goes in a pocket on his thigh, and pens go on the upper arm. “And this is where I keep my cash,” he said, pulling a fold of one-dollar bills out of a pocket near his shin. Why you would need cash in outer space beats me.
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Dale and Drysuit
At Pavilion Lake, most folks SCUBA dive using a drysuit. In a drysuit, you can wear layers of warm clothing underneath and remain quite dry and toasty. Pavilion Lake is around 4 degrees Celsius at the bottom, so staying warm is key. (I tried diving wearing a wetsuit. I do not recommend it.) Interestingly, you can’t pee in the water when you’re wearing a drysuit, because you’d just wind up wetting your pants. Some people have specialized pee valves put into their drysuits. Sporting the drysuit in this photo is Dale Andersen, who has been diving below 20 feet of ice in Antarctic lakes for 30 years, and once survived an Antarctic blizzard in nothing but a sleeping bag … a severely cool dude. His drysuit does not have a pee valve. I asked.
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The Other Sub
In addition to the piloted subs, we also have an autonomous sub called Gavia, which looks a lot like a golden torpedo. When programmed, Gavia can fly missions on her own, taking pictures and collecting data as she goes. Sometimes Gavia gets stuck in the mud, and Alex (pictured above) has to go diving to rescue her. The proper verb is “Gaviating.”
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Back in Vancouver, I was treated to a behind-the-scenes tour of the Vancouver Aquarium, thanks to a couple Pavilion Lake folks who work there as SCUBA divers. I never expected that getting to pet dolphins could be the low point of a month, but it certainly was. I miss Pavilion Lake terribly, and I’m already looking forward to going back next summer. I’ve never been so changed by one experience or group of people.
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I’m trying now to shift my thoughts towards what’s next, but to say it’s surreal would be an understatement. In ten days, I’ll head up to the Arctic on a twin-otter plane. I’m dreaming of glaciers, musk ox, icebergs, and long underwear.
Posted on July 3, 2008
I am long overdue for a real blog post, but instead I’m going to procrastinate more. Meanwhile, to distract you, here is a picture of the giant dandelions that are around Pavilion Lake. Seriously, these things are larger than my hand. I tried to make a wish on one, but couldn’t make the little fluffles float away, no matter how hard I blew.
Posted on June 28, 2008
I don’t work with normal people. Since I got to Pavilion Lake, I’ve had the opportunity to befriend an unreal group of people—people who’ve made careers at all ends of the earth, in outer space, and at the bottom of the oceans. Of course they’re all human, and they all take their jobs in stride as if it were the most common thing in the world. I think you have to, in a sense. But at the same time, what lets these people do such incredible things is that they never let it get old. It’s both a privilege and a talent to be able to pursue a job you love.
Adding to the list of characters here: Last night Dave Williams, the second of our two astronauts, arrived. Mike Gernhardt has been here since Monday. (Mike was wearing his flight suit today. My brain has more or less oozed its way out of my ear, and my heart has crawled up to take its place.)
This is the first year that Pavilion Lake has gotten the submarines, so there has definitely been a learning curve. These days, though, operations are running pretty smoothly, and the sub pilots have been able to start bringing up samples from the bottom of the lake. We’re researching microbialites, which are unusually-shaped carbonate structures. They vary in size and shape—from hand-sized to a few meters large, and from tall, chimney-like structures to structures that look more like heads of broccoli. We want to figure out how these structures are formed, and what causes the differences in shape and size. The submarines help us explore more than we possibly could by SCUBA.
Perhaps even more than the science itself, I’m fascinated by the technology that enables us to do this science. Thursday night Phil Nuytten arrived for a visit. Nuytco, which made the DeepWorker subs we’re using, is his company. Phil is a renaissance man of diving, pioneer of underwater technology, and, incidentally, a phenomenal totem pole carver. Yesterday he gave a really inspiring presentation. We got to see footage from the first solo dive deeper than 1,000 feet, see videos of the early development of the Newtsuit, and just listen to Phil talk about his career. He’s one of those people who either disregards or loves the fact that something hasn’t been done or doesn’t exist yet. You want to make a pressurized suit that can go down to 600 feet, but is still flexible enough to swim in? Sure. You just do your thing, Phil.
Yesterday Discovery Channel was here filming us, and they’re around again today. I’m trying my best to play it cool, but it’s totally not working.
Posted on June 27, 2008
Posted on June 25, 2008
Margarita Marinova, a Caltech grad student and one of the awesome people here at Pavilion Lake, just got the cover of Nature for her research into the origins of the two distinctly different hemispheres of Mars! Way to go, girl. Read more about it here.
Posted on June 22, 2008
I rode in the two-ton truck for the entire six hour trip north from Vancouver. We got to Pavilion Lake yesterday morning, unloaded everything, and had a million meetings.
Today, the barge was built, and the submarines were lowered by a crane onto the barge. The submarines we have are Deepworkers, which are tiny, one-person subs with clear domes for your head and sweet little claw-arm things. They’re made by Nuytco. (Remember that exo-suit James Bond wore? Nuytco makes those, too.) Pretty incredible stuff. Wish I got to drive one, but alas …
There is definitely a hierarchy of important people here, and I am clearly towards the bottom. But hell, I still get to hang out with all of these amazing people: astrobiologists, geobiologists, limnologists, engineers, submarine connoisseurs. People like Darlene Lim (NASA), Donnie Reid (totally badass SCUBA diver, with a resume including stuff like “in charge of the alligator from the movie Lake Placid“), Dale Andersen (astrobiologist who informed me this morning that he has probably spent a solid five years of his life living in a tent in Antarctica), Margarita Marinova (amazing student at Caltech whose latest paper just got the cover in Nature), etc.
And every morning, I get to witness these folks in all their groggy, pajama-clad glory.
Sorry I don’t have submarine pictures yet. (Just google “Deepworker” and you’ll find it.) For now, here’s a picture of Pavilion Lake:
Posted on June 18, 2008
I got into Vancouver yesterday evening. My luggage did not, but the airline gave me a pretty substantial care package: toothbrush, toothpaste, condom. So yeah, that should keep me pretty much set for the next month.
Things of note:
1. Gas is $1.42 here.
2. This is for liters, not gallons. Oops.
3. There is a baby beluga in the Vancouver aquarium.
4. Two blocks from the couch I’m sleeping on is a store that sells nothing but cupcakes.
This morning, I headed to the University of British Columbia to help Harry out with inventory. Harry is a cool guy who (from what I gathered) is writing a textbook on how to build underwater robots.
A lot of people working with the Pavilion Lake project are faculty or grad students at UBC, so a bunch of our stuff is in the Civil Engineering school here. We were basically working in an enormous garage, fondly called the Rusty Hut, which houses a hydraulics lab. There are hundreds of items that have to be inventoried … everything from giant buoys to secchi disks to AAA batteries. I keep being amazed by how huge an undertaking this project is. (Not to mention expensive. The daily rental price for the submarines? YOWZA!)
Also today we sliced up and shackled some really big chains (sparks flying everywhere! wooo power tools!!). They’re going to be attached to the two-ton blocks of cement which will serve as the anchors for the barge. The barge is what the subs will be launched from, and apparently the barge is so big that we’ve arranged to block off a highway to get everything up to Pavilion Lake.
Obviously a lot of “real science” involves tedious tasks like inventories. But inside the Rusty Hut is exactly how I pictured Science when I was a third grader: gigantic pipes and copper coils and even a door labeled with nothing but DANGER LASERS.
Posted on June 16, 2008
It is well known that blogging is the best cure for the airport doldrums.
When I arrived at the airport this morning, the lady at the baggage check-in looked at me and said “marine biologist?” I was very excited, thinking I gave off some sort of field researcher vibe, before realizing that there is a pair of enormous rubber boots strapped to my backpack.
At any rate, I’ll be sleeping on a couch in Vancouver for the next week, going to meetings and packing up all our field stuff before heading up to Pavilion Lake.